Author Archives: Jason Revie

Does Bottom Paint Go Bad?

Yes, bottom paint can go bad. Bottom paint can last several years in the can provided it was unopened or sealed properly. However, high copper content bottom paint that has been in your garage for a year or more will require a mechanical mixer because of the settling of heavy copper in the bottom paint.

The actual lifespan of bottom paint depends on the type of bottom paint used and the environment in which it is used. Hard bottom paints do not release or wear off of the boat. Therefore, after about 12-18 months maximum the copper in the bottom paint will oxidize and become ineffective. In addition, if you leave the boat out of the water for 3 days at anytime during the life cycle, the hard bottom paint will oxidize and will become ineffective. For optimal protection, hard bottom paint should be applied once a year. Since hard bottom paint builds up on the surface of the boat bottom after each application, you can typically need to apply one heavy coat each season.

Bottom Paint

Just like hard bottom paint, ablative bottom paint will also oxidize, However, since it is ablative (wears away) there is always fresh copper or biocides being exposed to keep your bottom paint working. Therefore, ablative bottom paints can last for multiple years. This depends on environmental factors such as, how much you use the boat, wear you dock the boat (fast currents and tides will wear off the ablative bottom paint faster), and how much ablative bottom paint was actually applied.

Generally speaking, when it comes to ablative bottom paint, the number of coats (or thickness of each coat), the longer the bottom paint will last. When using ablative bottom paint you should always apply multiple coats ( at least two heavy coats. A good idea is to used a different color for the 1st coat. When you start to see that color show through – its time to repaint your boat. If you leave your boat out of the water for more than 30 days, ablative bottom paint will still work. It is a good idea to lightly pressure wash your boat, or lightly rub the bottom with a wet old t-shirt to remove the oxidation before relaunching the boat.

Care and Maintenance of Awlgrip HDT

Awlgrip HDT Base

DO:
1. Wash the surface regularly with Awlwash (73234) or Awlwash 2.0 (73235) and water.
2. Use only mild solvents to remove stubborn stains. Awlprep T0008, mineral spirits and xylene are acceptable for use on Awlgrip HDT.
Do not allow solvent to dry on the surface or puddle and soak into the surface. Wash these areas with Awlwash and water to remove solvent residue.
3. Always thoroughly rinse surfaces with fresh water after cleaning with Awlwash or solvents.
4. Use distilled white vinegar and hot water to remove stubborn salt stains. Washing with Awlwash after use of vinegar is recommended.
5. Use Awlcare (73240) by hand only to remove mild diesel soot stains.
Protecting the surface with Awlcare will help maintain the gloss of Awlgrip HDT. Awlcare is a hand applied, non-abrasive, synthetic polymer. It will remove mild stains, water spots and diesel soot while increasing resistance to attack from acid rain and other pollutants, when applied regularly.

DO NOT:
1. Do not use traditional waxes. Awlgrip has developed Awlcare Protective Polymer Sealer for those who want to enhance their finish and need the additional cleaning power of a hand applied, dry wash product.
2. Do not use abrasives, scratch pads or polishing compounds. Scratching the surface gives dirt a place to cling while wearing out the resin layer. Using abrasives of any kind will reduce the overall life of the finish and voids the Awlgrip Limited Warranty.
3. Do not allow contact between the Awlgrip HDT and teak cleaners.
4. Do not allow metal polishes to dry on the surface of Awlgrip HDT. Metal polishes may discolor and stain the painted surface.
5. Do not use strong solvents (eg. lacquer thinner, M.E.K., acetone) to clean Awlgrip HDT.
6. Do not allow wet equipment (e.g. seat cushions, coils of line, sails, sail covers, coolers) to trap and hold moisture against Awlgrip HDT.
7. Do not ‘shrink wrap’ or tightly bind Awlgrip HDT surfaces with plastic wrappings. The cover system, whether synthetic or natural fiber, should be ventilated to allow the coating system to ‘breathe’.

How to Apply Awlgrip HDT

Surface Preparation

The surface preparation advice provided, and equipment suggestions, can be used as a guide. Preparation techniques and results will vary according to individual conditions, equipment choice/condition and other factors. Testing on a non-critical area should be carried out prior to full-scale preparation.
Awlgrip HDT should be applied over Awlgrip 545 Epoxy Primer or previous Awlgrip Topcoat/Awlgrip HDT/Awlcraft 2000.
Over Awlgrip Topcoat/Awlgrip HDT/Awlcraft 2000 topcoat sand topcoat with P400 to remove the gloss and clean with surface cleaner T0170 (US) or T0340 (EU) using the two cloth wipe down method.
Avoid painting in direct sunlight. Do not apply paint materials to surfaces less than 5°F (3°C) above dew point, or to surfaces warmer than 105°F (41°C).
Ambient temperature should be minimum 55°F (13°C) and maximum 105°F (41°C). At standard conditions (77˚F (25˚C), 50% R.H.), avoid applying topcoats when the temperature could drop below the dew point within 6–8 hours after the application.

Mixing & Reduction of Awlgrip HDT
Mixing and reduction requirements will vary according to individual conditions, climate, equipment choice/condition and other factors. Mixing and application of a small sample before full-scale application is recommended.
Mix Ratio (by volume) – 1:1:0.25 (Base : Curing Solution : Activator)  (eg 1 Gallon:1 Gallon:1 Quart or 100:100:25ml).
Induction time = 15 minutes.
Mix to a smooth, homogenous mixture
Awlgrip HDT is designed for spray application only. Correct choice of activator must be made according to the application conditions and project size.
General guideline:
15-23ºC OA0020
20-30 ºC OA0015 (US only)
>30ºC OA0010

1. Mix all 3 components of Awlgrip HDT thoroughly, especially the base. Mix by volume to a homogeneous mixture:

For example, mix 100ml OC series, 100ml OC0010 & 25ml OA0020 (or 32 ounces OC series, 32 ounces OC0010 & 8 ounces OA0020). Keeo in mind that adding more activator into the mix may compromise pot life and could affect the flow of the product.
2. Once the product is mixed, ensure at least 15 minutes induction time. If the induction time is not followed, the product may down gloss / haze once cured.
3. Initial spray viscosity should be 14-20 seconds (DIN4 or equivalent) and varies with the application conditions. The best choice of activator will depend on application conditions and boat size.

As a general guideline (see below):

Application & Conditions for Awlgrip HDT

4. Application equipment: Gravity or pressure feed, air atomized spray or electrostatic spray
5. The primed surface must be clean and dry.
6. Apply 2 coats of Awlgrip HDT, this should be sufficient to achieve the correct DFT of 50-75 microns (3mils) DFT. However, some colours may require additional coats to achieve full hide / opacity and colour development. Application of the first coat should be approximately 75 microns (3 mils) WFT and application of the second coat should be approximately 100 microns (3.9mils) WFT. The surface may not become completely ‘tack free’ in between coats, however it is recommended to wait at least 30 minutes between coats (this time will vary depending on activator selection, temperature and humidity and air flow)
7. Awlgrip HDT has a relatively short pot life compared to Awlgrip topcoat, so for optimal performance prepare a fresh mix for each application. Don’t mix the new & old paint together as this may compromise the final finish.
8. The Awlgrip HDT activators can be blended together to suit not only environmental conditions but also project complexity. For a good starting point use a 50/50 OA0010/ OA0020 blend (or OA0015) then adjust to your preference.
8.1 To achieve a longer pot life or longer wet edge, the blend of A0010 and A0020 should be adjusted to include more A0010.
8.2 Similarly, for small areas or where drying time needs to be reduced, the proportion of A0020 should be increased.

9. Even if temperature has a greater effect on the cure and the potlife, humidity to some extend can also have an influence on the flow and performance of the product.
9.1 In cooler humid conditions it is suggested to either use only OA0020 or a blend of OA0020 and OA0010 with a higher proportion of OA0020 to OA0010. Example 75/25 OA0020/OA0010.
9.2 In hot humid conditions it may be necessary to increase the proportion of OA0010 and decrease the proportion of OA0020. Example, 75/25 OA0010/OA0020. Even in hot humid conditions, it is not recommended to solely use OA0010 due to the risk of moisture causing down glossing.
10. When first using Awlgrip HDT, it can apply differently to other topcoats currently in use. To help with this, up to 12.5% of T0002, T0001, T0003, T0005 or T0031 can be added to help with wetting out of the surface. Using extra reducer may require an additional coat to be applied and will mean the product is no longer ‘VOC compliant’. Once applicators are used to the behaviour of HDT on application, a similar quality of finish can be achieved without the addition of extra reducer. It is recommended to mix separately the Activator (OA0010, OA0015, OA0020) in equal amounts to the chosen reducer. This mix can then be added to the 1:1 base & curing solution at 25%. This mix will contain 12.5% Activator (as recommended) with 12.5% reducer; from a painters perspective this gives a 1:1:0.5 overall mix ratio.
11. Thanks to the activator/ reducer choice based on temperature, Awlgrip HDT has been proven to be a very adaptable product. The chart on page 1 is to be used as a guide only. In low temperatures, the standard paint mix with fast activator works very well. On larger surfaces, the addition of standard solvents helps to carry a wet edge if the applicator is struggling. For hot weather, OA0015 activator works well. If the applicator is struggling with wet edge, the addition of solvents helps. It is recommended when blending the activators to use the two extremes OA0010 Slow) and OA0020 (Fast) this allows more control. In low temperatures, we recommend T0001 or T0002; in medium temperatures T0003 and in hot temperatures T0005. In hot to very hot weather T0031. Start with the addition of 5% solvent. It is recommended for larger applications that a pre-shoot on panels is to be carried out, “to enable applicator to choose” the best optimization for the size project and conditions.
DRYING TIMES & REPAIRS for Awlgrip HDT
12. If environmental conditions require that the product dries faster (cooler more humid conditions), add slightly more OA0020 into the mix. Keep in mind this may compromise pot life and could affect the flow of the product. Also, in that case the product is no longer VOC compliant.
13. Awlgrip HDT has a new repair process compared to the standard Awlgrip repair. See the Repair & maintenance brochure for further info.
14. Awlgrip HDT can be harder to polish therefore we only recommend this for repairs and to remove localised defects. If working in an environment where you know you’re going to polish the whole boat, Awlcraft 2000 is the best choice.
15. Polishing Awlgrip HDT : Always test a small, low visibility area (or a sample panel) first before proceeding. Certain color shades may not be suitable for polishing. The tone of the color may be affected during sanding or aggressive polishing. Multi-stage sanding & polishing systems can also be used. You should contact your local supplier for further information.

Awlgrip HDT Application continued

Application equipment and parameters are given as a guide. Actual equipment choices will vary according to application conditions, equipment condition and other factors. Testing on a non-critical area should be carried out prior to full-scale application. Contact your local technical service representative for further advice if necessary.
To ensure optimal adhesion between coats Awlgrip HDT should be applied according to the overcoating intervals as described in the Recoatability & Drying Times section.
Apply a full coat of Awlgrip HDT to the surface. Allow tack coat to “flash off” 30-45 minutes depending on application conditions. Apply a slightly heavy second coat. A third coat can be applied to reach DFT if needed.                         

Application MethodsFluid TipFluid PressureAir Pressure
Conventional Spray Gravity,
Electrostatic
1.20 – 1.40 mm
47 – 55 thou
 –180 – 280 cc/min3 – 5 bar
29 – 44 psi

Recoatability & Drying Times
The data given for recoatability is not exhaustive. Actual recoatability can vary according to individual conditions, climate and surroundings. If unsure, consult your local technical service representative before proceeding.

Drying15ºC (59ºF)25ºC (77ºF)35ºC (95ºF)
Hard Dry46 hours22 hours6.5 hours
Touch Dry6 hours4.5 hours1.5 hours
Pot Life3 hours2/5 hours2 hours

Values in the table are for a 50:50 mix by volume of Awlgrip HDT Fast Activator and Awlgrip HDT Slow Activator. If using only Awlgrip HDT Fast Activator or Awlgrip HDT Slow Activator at a different ratio drying time and pot life will vary.

Awlgrip HDT has a shorter pot life than a standard polyurethane topcoat.

Overcoated by15ºC (59ºF)15ºC (59ºF)25ºC (77ºF)25ºC (77ºF)35ºC (95ºF)35ºC (95ºF)
MinMaxMinMaxMinMax
Awlgrip HDT2 hours24 hours2 hours24 hours2 hours24 hours

Recoatability: Spray application consists of 2 to 3 coats applied over 2-4 hours. Exact time will vary with temperature, project size and film thickness applied. Awlgrip HDT cannot be overcoated with itself after 24h. Please contact your local representative for more information
Some Important Points
Awlgrip HDT is compatible with Awlgrip repair product. Please refer to the Awlgrip website or to the Awlgrip Application Guide for further information.

Awlgrip Product Data Sheet

TIPS & TRICKS FOR AWLGRIP HDT APPLICATION

Thinning Gelcoat and Using PVA

Gelcoat does not fully cure without first supplementing it with a surfacing agent or wax additive sanding aid. Gelcoat may be thinned for use in a Portable Preval Sprayer with styrene monomer. You can spray it with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) before gelcoat reaches its gel stage (5-10 min.), or add 1oz per quart of a wax additive sanding aid.

PVA or Partall Film #10 is a release agent that helps with removing parts from a mold or can be used as a surfacing agent when using gelcoat without a wax additive (sanding aid).

PVA is soluble in water making it easy to wash off. Applying can be achieved by spraying or wiping the green liquid on with a sponge. It will foam slightly but dry to a clear, glossy shine. It can take 15-30 minutes depending on temperature.

For spraying gelcoat our FGCI brand does not recommend thinning.

Generally, you should not add more than 10% Styrene by volume. Patch Booster is an additive that will thin out gelcoat and not affect colors. Follow manufacturers instructions as added Mekp may be needed.

Another thinning alternative is the Duratec High Gloss Additive. This is used with gelcoat for many reasons. Mixed at a 50/50 ratio this will produce a high gloss finish and will serve as a thinner for your gelcoat, that is why this is commonly used when spraying gelcoat. In addition, you’ll omit any additional sanding aid. After waiting a full 24 hours you can buff when cured, for a hi-gloss use 600 or higher grit paper and buff with Aqua Buff 2000 compound. Follow the manufacturer’s technical data sheet as an extra hardener may be needed. Some customers use Styrene for thinning but the manufacturer warns it can affect the gelcoat colors although this is the most cost-effective option and doesn’t have the added wax.

Which Fiberglass Cloth to Choose?

Depending on the job at hand, we offer a few types of fiberglass cloth to choose from and different cloths are used for different jobs. They are available in different widths and are sold by the roll or yard.

Mat– This mat is used for parts and is great for not showing fiberglass patterns through gelcoat. Mat has many small fibers thrown together on a binder and is the most used, basic cloth. There is no specific direction to the fibers, making them strong and light. Sold in ¾ oz up to 2 oz thickness.

Woven Roving-This weave has long fibers weaved together like a cloth. It is extremely thick and durable making it heavier than other fiberglass materials. This often shows pattern through gelcoat and is used for heavy-duty items. Sold in 18 and 24 oz thickness.

Double Bias Non Woven- 1808, the first number is the woven roving thickness (18oz) and 08 is the mat thickness (3/4 oz). This is a combination of woven roving on one side and mat on the other, making it very durable and usually used for boat and house decks as it is very rigid.

Fiberglass Cloth– This is sold in 4, 6, 8 and 10 oz thickness and is very fine. While being rigid it is also used for anything that is see-through, such as surfboards as it’s thin, lightweight, and shows well with clear resin.

What to Use on the Deck of My Boat?

Over the lifetime of any boat there will come a time when the deck needs to be renewed. You have a choice of non-skid additives, or paints that already contain a nonskid compound.  A non skid boat deck helps protect the surface as well as the occupants.

When looking for a non-skid surface you have many options. If your boat floor is currently gelcoat, you can re-gelcoat the surface with or without a non-skid additive. More information about gelcoat application can be found here. Gelcoat is more durable than paint and once a gelcoat surface is painted gelcoat will not adhere.

If paint is desired, non-skid can be added to our marine paints by Duralux and Awlgrip. Often an exact match can be found to your hull paint color. Find more topside paint options available and detailed instructions on adding non skid found in our how to section.

Customers painting the floor of a jon boat, frequently use the Aluma Hawk aluminum paint with a non skid additive. This paint serves as a paint and primer in one for your aluminum surface.

Interdeck boat deck paint is a non-skid deck paint by Interlux and offers an excellent slip resistant finish. It contains a fine aggregate and will apply easily on substrates. Its low sheen finish prevents dazzling that can be reflected by sunlight off decks. Interdeck is also easy to apply and available in numerous colors. The tough polyurethane resin protects decks against everyday wear and tear.

Depending on your paint choices, follow the manufacturers application instructions whether applying to aluminum, fiberglass, or wood to ensure best adhesion and slip resistance.

For cleaning the teak on your boat deck, JustTeak™ is a marine-grade teak cleaning system is designed to rejuvenate your teak quickly and easily. JustTeak™ will clean, brighten, and once sealed protect your teak decking. We have an application instructions video How to clean and protect the teak on your boat.

Antifouling Paint or Prop Glide for Outdrives?

Which method of protective propeller coating is best for your boat? While there is no right or wrong solution, there are a few things to consider before making your decision.

Important questions to ask:

  1. Do you haul and repaint your boat every year?
  2. Does the prop see regular use?

Antifouling Paint – If you answered NO to the second question, you will likely be better off with traditional antifouling paint protecting your outdrive. Slick film coatings need to see regular use in order to repel fouling successfully. And if you answered YES to the first question, the additional cost of slick film coatings may not be worth it for you.

Which antifouling products are recommended for outdrives? Here are two good options.

Option 1 – Apply Tuff Stuff epoxy primer (or similar primer) direct to the metal. Paint over with a copper free bottom paint such as Colorkote. (It is very important to only use a copper-free bottom paint. Copper-based paints on underwater metals will experience galvanic corrosion.) This option guarantees the best protection and longest lasting coverage, but the paint will need to be recoated each season depending on prop usage.

Option 2 – Apply an aerosol underwater metal coating such as Barnacle Blocker or Pettit Barnacle Barrier. These are relatively inexpensive coatings that could provide a large amount of pay off.

PropGlide™ Propeller and Running Gear Coatings – If you answered YES to the second question above then you may want to give foul-release systems a try. These are non-toxic, slick coatings that prevent growth from attaching itself to the prop and running gear, thus improving your boat speed and fuel efficiency. It is important to note that for PropGlide to keep its slick quality and repel fouling, the prop needs to see regular use. Without the pesticide coatings of traditional bottom paint, a stationary prop is an easy target for barnacles and other organisms. While slick film coatings may not be the solution for all boaters, many have tried it and had great success. Note what some PropGlide users have stated below.

“For over a year, we at the Big Boat Shed ship repair and storage yard for vessels up to 60ft have been trialing out PropGlide. We have found it very user friendly and has a better finish when compared to its competitors. With our tropical humid conditions we could not have asked for a better drying time then what PropGlide offers. This allows us to plan prepare and execute any prop coating task with PropGlide such a breeze. PropGlide is now our main recommended brand for propeller and running gear antifouling coatings.” 3/8/2017

“We applied PropGlide to the propellers and rudders on our 42′ power catamaran in March 2016. We have found excellent results so far with very little growth appearing on the running gear. We have been able to maintain great boat speed, excellent economy and no vibrations unlike previous years with using other products. Our Applicator has even commentated how much easier PropGlide is to apply compared to its competitors.” Mick Malone 9/28/2016

Click this link to compare the price of Propspeed kits and PropGlide™ Propeller Paint Kits.
Click this link to read about Painting an Aluminum Outdrive

What Should be Applied to a Baptismal Pool, Water Fountain or Small Pond?

Usually, a baptismal pool is made of fiberglass and coated with gelcoat. The gelcoat can either be restored or new gelcoat can be applied. How do you know which is best? New gelcoat is recommended if it is worn too thin or a new color is desired. Our gelcoat is very user friendly and can be sprayed or brushed in small areas. We don’t recommend the brushable gelcoat in pools because the chemicals can affect the gelcoat lifespan.

See our article in gelcoat application for more details.

Gelcoat can also be used in a water fountain or small pond, which are usually holding water. It is perfectly safe for fish once the gelcoat is fully cured.

What Products Do I Use to Paint a Livewell?

A livewell is a tank found on many fishing boats that is used to keep bait and caught fish alive. It works by pumping fresh water from the surrounding body into the tank, as well as keeping the water aerated.

Most live wells on boats are made of fiberglass and usually coated with gelcoat. For more information on applying gelcoat see our How to Apply Gelcoat article.

In the case that your live well is aluminum you can apply Aluma Hawk, available in white, blue, grey, black, sand and jon boat green to the aluminum surface.

How To Mark Your Waterline for Bottom Paint

The waterline can also refer to anyline on a ship’s hull that is parallel to the water’s surface when the ship is afloat in a normal position. There are many reasons a waterline needs to be marked, it is a new vessel, the old paint has been blasted off for a new finish, or you’ve loaded it up with more stuff the original marking is off. Marking the waterline is often met with dread and getting the correct line for your bottom paint will provide stunning results. Getting it wrong, especially when paired with a boot stripe, will stand out like a sore thumb.

If your boat is new, the waterline should be marked on the designer’s drawing, if that is available. If not, you can take the measurements from a similar boat. If the boat has been in the water, even a few days, there may be some slight staining along the waterline (or just float the boat) that can be marked with a grease marker (best if it is full with fuel). Others have advised to throw sawdust in the water around the boat. Haul the boat and see where the sawdust has stuck to the wet hull.

Fine-line masking tape is ideal for this because it has some stretch and conforms very well to hull shape, especially if the hull has a lot of reverse turns. Don’t press the tape too firmly yet – you may need to peel it back for small adjustments. Once you’re happy with the whole line, press the tape firmly against the hull. Since the boat is already level, all you have to do for the second side is to set the level at the correct height and mark the stern with a piece of tape or transpose the wax crayon mark.

When the boat is aligned athwartships, set up the laser tripod, the exact spot is not critical providing the laser beam can see the whole side of the boat (if you can see it, so can the laser beam). Turn on the laser and adjust the height of the beam until it touches the marks you made at the bow and the stern. If it touches the mark on the bow but the stern is too high, lower the jack-stands at the stern or raise those at the bow—vice versa if the stern is low. Double-check the spirit level in the cockpit to make sure you’re not tilting the boat.

Can I change the color or tint my paint?

For most paints, in order to guarantee efficacy, the only way we recommend changing the color of  paints is to mix like paints, ie. Mixing Aluma Hawk with Aluma Hawk. We do not recommend addition of “universal” tints or pigments into our products. Many customers desire an antifouling paint in a deep, dark blue and this can be achieved by mixing blue and black.

Gel coats and resins can have a tint added, no more than 1 oz per quart, which can limit the effect. Another option is to mix two gelcoat colors, such as white and red for pink.

Application of Topside Mega Gloss by Blue Water

Learn how to apply Mega Gloss Gold and Mega Gloss by Blue Water Marine Paints

Prepping & priming for topside work
Mega Gloss by Blue Water Paint provides a beautiful aesthetic finish, and also provides protection against – sea, rain, wind and sun.
Blistering UV rays will degrade the surface of fiberglass and prematurely age your vessel. Moisture can also cause as many problems for wooden vessels and metal boats.

  • Clean and prepare the hull by first washing with soap and water and finish with fresh water. Then wipe the surface with a rag that has been dampened with Naptha.
  • After preparing the surface, sand with 220-320 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Remove sanding residue by wiping with a rag that has been dampened with Naptha.
  • Apply 1-2 coats of Mega Gloss Primer and 2-3 coats of Finish Paint. Sand between coats with 320-400 grit. If the paint is peeling, cracking or generally showing signs of separations over the whole area, you need to remove the coating.

Applying topside paint
• Stir the paint thoroughly using a stir stick. Stir the can occasionally during work.
• Application methods for all paints include brush,roller or spray.
• It is best to paint on warm dry mornings – cold weather retards the drying of paint and dampness will spoil the gloss.
Brush – Long flexible bristles are best for gloss paints. Apply by brush, spreading with horizontal strokes before finishing with light vertical strokes. To minimize brush marks, hold the brush at a 45° angle.
Roller – A good gloss can be obtained using a high density / small cell foam roller. This will minimize the formation of bubbles in the surface. It is best to roll in one direction and tip off in another direction.
Thinners can be added as you work to maintain working viscosity.
• Pour the amount you expect to use in 30 minutes into a separate container.
• Once topcoat painting is complete, it should be kept dry for at least 24 hours, and 7–10 days should be allowed for full curing to take place.
• Do NOT use or incorporate any flow control agents like Penetrol®.

Topside paint hints / tricks
Mega Gloss™ can be made to be a non-skid texture for decks by the addition of Non Skid, by adding to the paint and applying 2 coats.

Application of a topside primer will provide additional depth of color, adhesion and durability.

  • The best method is to apply with a roller, and then tip off with a large brush with long flexible bristles.
  • Use a diagonal brushing method at 45 degrees, followed by horizontal and then vertical strokes.
  • The best roller is a solvent resistant foam roller, which will reduce bubbles.
  • Use a top quality fine line masking tape for good crisp lines and no residual glue left on the hull.

Why do the majority of boaters paint with 1-part paint?
Alkyd enamels, and modifications of alkyd enamel technology, have been the work horse products in the marine industry for approximately fifty years. Generally, they dry reasonably fast, are easy to apply and have very good weathering characteristics. More alkyd enamels are still used than any other enamel type.

Can topside paints be applied to below water surfaces?
Most topside coating systems if constantly immersed or kept wet will tend to blister. It would be best to use a water-barrier primer and bottom paint if the surface will be submerged. 

What’s the best way to get a good finish with topsides paints?
You must lightly sand the surface and then use a good roller or brush. Thin when needed for proper flow and performance

Where to buy polyurethane paint? The Bottom Paint Store has several polyurethane paints available to choose from. If you need technical assistance please contact our technical team via Live Chat or by calling 888-505-2313.

What Equipment is Needed to do a Proper Application of Antifouling Bottom Paint?

Antifouling bottom paint is needed if you store your boat in the water. If left in the water without protection, marine growth may attach to your boat’s exposed hull. Marine growth slows a boat down and increases fuel consumption. Here are the items that you will need in addition to the bottom paint for the proper anti-fouling bottom paint application.

60–100 grit – Suitable for the removal of paint or to sand gel coat prior to the application of antifouling paint.
• After sanding remove sanding residue by wiping with a cloth that has been dampened with the proper solvent.
Masking Tape – When it is necessary to mask off areas use a high quality clean edge masking tape, especially when the masking tape will be left on the surface for a long time.
• Brushes – For antifouling paints use a natural bristle brush but not necessarily one of as good quality as you would use to apply topside finishes.
• Rollers – Most solvent resistant rollers will have a phenolic core and will say that they are for use with oil based paints or epoxies. For antifouling paint and epoxy primers, use a 3/8”-1/2” nap roller.

Ideal Temperatures for Applying Paints and Gelcoats

When applying coatings in cooler temperatures it is important that you meet the minimum temperature requirements. This information can typically be found in the products technical data sheet, or on the can label.

As a general rule, coatings should be applied in good weather when air and surface temperatures are above 50°F (10°C) for most paints and 60°F (16°C) for epoxy, resin, and gelcoats . Surface temperature must be a least 50°F (10°C) above dew point. For optimum application properties, bring material to 70-80°F (21-27°C) temperature range prior to mixing and application.

Tips:

  • Make sure to store the coatings inside to keep the temperature in the optimal range prior to application.
  • Do not let coatings freeze, as this may alter the chemical integrity of the products.
  • In warm (hot) conditions be sure to keep the coatings out of direct sunlight exposure.

Coatings such as resins and gelcoats that require MEKp to be added for curing will require more MEKp in cooler conditions, and less MEKp in warmer conditions. See the guide below, but refer to the specific coating’s technical data sheet for detailed information:

MEPk Levels

MEkp Concentration Levels

 

PROPGLIDE TECHNICAL DATA & APPLICATION GUIDE

PropGlide is an environmentally friendly foul release coating for boat propellers and running gear which prevents the attachment of marine growth by low critical surface tension. PropGlide does not contain cuprous oxide or TBT compounds or any other toxic substances which might cause environmental pollution. PropGlide is sold in 4 size kits. Sailboat, Small, Medium and Large. For the best size kit for your application see: Which PropGlide Kit Size Do You Need?

Each PropGlide Kit contains various sizes of Primer Base (Part 1), Primer Hardener (Part 2), and a Clear Top Coat.

  • propglide foul release coatingSailboat Kit 175ML Kit (#PCK-175) Contents: 60ML Primer Base, 15ML Primer Hardener, 100ML Clear Topcoat
  • Small Kit 250ML Kit (#PCK-250) Contents: 120ML Primer Base, 30ML Primer Hardener, 100ML Clear Topcoat
  • Medium Kit 625ML Kit (#PCK-625) Contents: 300ML Primer Base, 75ML Primer Hardener, 250ML Clear Topcoat
  • Large Kit 1125ML Kit (#PCK-1125) Contents: 2-300ML Primer Base, 2-75ML Primer Hardener, 2-250ML Clear Topcoat

This PropGlide Technical Data & Application Guide will detail how to apply any size kit of PropGlide by detailing the best preparation of the surface and application of the etching primer, and the final application of the Clear Topcoat.

Preparation of the Surface

The preparation of the surfaces to be coated with PropGlide is the key for the product to work effectively.

1. Remove previous coatings, fouling organisms/marine growth from metal surfaces. All substrates that are to be coated with PropGlide must be bare metal. These areas should be machine sanded with a Dual Action sander fitted with a soft pad and 60-80 grit abrasive discs sandpaper. Sanding the surface by hand is recommended at hard-to-reach areas where the dual action sander cannot reach. Use 60 – 80 grit wet/dry sandpaper, with water as a lubricant. Make sure the sand paper is changed frequently to ensure the necessary profile is achieved. Hand sanding these hard-to-reach areas is required to ensure the surface is properly abraded. The shaft should be done with hand sanding rather than using a machine. From this point forward, there shouldn’t be any direct hand contact to areas which are to be coated with PropGlide. It is advisable to wear latex gloves as it will ensure the areas to be painted remain clean and sound.

2. Once the surface sanding process is completed, wash all the areas with clean fresh water and wipe with clean, lintfree cotton rags soaked in water to wipe off sanding residue. Continue doing this until the rags don’t show any sign of residue, contaminants or discoloration.

3. After cleansing with water is completed, use a rag soaked in acetone or denatured alcohol to remove water on the sanded surface.

Continue to use the rag until it becomes dry from evaporation of the acetone or denatured alcohol. Use one or more rags as required, until the rag looks white clean, as there will be no contaminants when the rag is white clean. Again, care should be taken not to touch cleaned surfaces with bare hands. This is because fingers and hands contain oils which can transfer to the cleaned surfaces and therefore would inhibit the adhesion of the coatings.

Apply the Etching Primer

There is a Primer Base (Part 1) and a Primer Hardener (Part 2) to activate the primer base. This two-component etching primer dries chemically by reaction of the mixed components and provides protection against corrosion and increases the adhesive property of the subsequent coats. It may be used as a pre-treatment primer on non-ferrous metals such as bronze and aluminum as well as zinc and galvanised iron. May also be used as pre-treatment primer on blast-cleaned steel plates.

Temperature Limitations: Primer and Topcoat should be brought to 70-80°F (21-27°C) temperature range prior to mixing and application. Apply in good weather conditions when air and surface temperatures are above 50°F (10°C). Surface temperature must be a least 50°F (10°C).

PropGlide Etching Primer Physical Properties

  • Mixing Ratio: Primer Base (Part 1) : Primer Hardener (Part 2) = 4 : 1 by volume
  • Colour: Primer Base (Part 1) : Yellow, Primer Hardener (Part 2) : Clear
  • Dry Film Thickness: 8 microns
  • Drying Time: 5-15 minutes touch dry (temperature dependent)- 1 hour hard dry @ 20°C/68°F

Painting Interval: Apply PropGlide Clear TopCoat when Etching Primer is just touch dry Pot Life: 8 hrs @ 20°C/68°F

1. Agitate the Primer Base (Part 1) contents by scraping the bottom and sides of the can, as there will be settling. Mix contents of primer until the settled parts are incorporated back into solution and uniformly blended. Do not strain material, even if particles are present.

2. Stir Primer Hardener (Part 2) then add entire contents to the Primer Base (Part 1) container. Mix primer base and hardener for 30 seconds and apply mixture to sanded surface immediately after mixing.

3. Application of the Primer Base/Hardener mixture should be thin. The film should be thin enough, so that it is barely coating the surface, yet it does not provide sections or lines on the sanded surface that are not coated. Do not touch the primer mixture as it dries. The method of application of the primer may be done by using either a natural bristle brush or foam roller. 4. Apply a second coat of Primer Base/Hardener mixture after the first coat dries.

Apply the Clear Top Coat

The Clear Top Coat that should be applied to the last coat of Etching Primer within 5-15 minutes. The Clear Top Coat serves as a slick finish that will inhibit marine growth from attaching to the surface.

PropGlide Clear Top Coat Physical Properties:

  • Binder type: Silicone Polymer
  • Solvent: Xylene
  • Colour: Clear coating
  • Finish: Glossy
  • Dry time: 45 minutes touch dry ; 8 hours hard dry @ 20°C
  • Recommended film build: 75 microns per coat
  • Thinning: N/A
  • Clean up: Acetone
  • Shelf life: 12 months

1. After 5 to 15 minutes (depending on temperature) of applying the 2nd coat of Primer/Hardener mixture promptly apply the Top Coat. Application of Top Coat should be thicker than Primer/Hardener mixture, yet not thick enough so that the Top Coat produces runs. The Top Coat is to be applied with brush only, NO foam applicators are to be used.

2. Let the Top Coat dry overnight before launching.

Propspeed Vs. PropGlide

Propspeed ReviewFoul Release Systems Like Propspeed and PropGlide provide the best solution to keeping growth of your props and running gear. While these are not antifouling prop paints, they do keep the growth off buy creating a super slippery surface that the marine growth cannot stick to. Propspeed recommends that their kits by applied by a professional Propspeed applicator. On the other hand, PropGlide is available for any DIY applicator and is 30%+ less and more product for the money. If you want to apply this yourself, be sure to follow the details in the respective application manuals.   You can find these on any of the Propeller Foul Release Kit listed on our website.
PropGlide is newer to the market, but been in development for over ten years, while Propspeed  has been available for many years and is the leading brand name in the market place. The biggest issue with Propspeed is the cost. Very expensive!  PropGlide is also expensive but 30% less than Propspeed. In addition, you get 25% more product with PropGlide , so be sure to get the right size. You might be able to use a smaller size kit with PropGlide  which could then save you over 50%! You can find the comparison on PropGlide’s web site: Propspeed Compared

 

Performance of both coatings has been comparable, with much fewer complaints about PropGlide   Either they are just newer in the market with less complaints, or they truly have improved performance. Time will tell. At this point we recommend trying PropGlide  as a Propspeed alternative – since there is comparable performance with Propspeed, the cost savings alone is worth it! And PropGlide offers a sailboat size kit making it affordable now for sailboat owners.

This Propspeed review and PropGlide review is the sole opinion of BottomPaintStore.com

Note: Propspeed™ is a registered trademark of Oceanmax. Bottom Paint Store is not affiliated with Propspeed or Oceanmax in anyway. Above Propspeed prices and PropGlide prices are based on internet web search October 2016 .

PropGlide Frequently Asked Questions

logo-200x43 How does PropGlide work? PropGlide is a coating system that is applied to the props and underwater running gear of any vessel. Once applied, the PropGlide system reduces friction to the metal surface which greatly improves efficiency by not allowing growth to stick to the underwater metals. The result is an improvement in prop speed and fuel efficiency.

Is PropGlide toxic? Not at all. PropGlide contains no toxic biocides. It works be creating a super slippery surface not allowing growth to attach to the props and underwater metal.

Does PropGlide prevent barnacles and zebra mussels? No. It does not prevent from occurring. Barnacles and Zebra mussels will still grow. However, they will NOT attach. As soon as the vessel starts moving, the growth slides off with ease!

What can I expect after applying PropGlide to my props and running gear? You should expect growth not to stick to the properly prepared and kept surface while experiencing greater fuel efficiency and speed.

Can PropGlide be used in salt water and fresh water? Yes, PropGlide may be used in any type of water, including fresh water, salt water and brackish water conditions.

propglide foul release coatingHow long does it take to apply Propglide? The application time varies by the size of the prop(s) and running gear that you are covering, but typical application can be done in a few hours. Please see our application guidelines for detailed information. Note: Remember to wait overnight before launching your vessel!

Who can apply PropGlide? Unlike many other foul release coatings, you may apply PropGlide yourself by following the application guide, or you can contact a local boatyard or dealer in your area to apply it for you.

If I haul my boat after I have applied Propglide, will it still work after leaving the boat of the water? Yes, PropGlide can be left out of the water without affecting any performance of the system.

How long will PropGlide last? There are many factors that can affect the longevity of PropGlide including number of hours and kilometers traveled, various environmental factors including water temperature and purity. PropGlide will last 1-2 years depending on the above factors.

Can I recoat PropGlide during my next haul out? You must remove all of the old PropGlide by sandblasting, sanding, scraping, wire wheel or grinder. After all old PropGlide is removed down to the metal surface, clean the area to be primed with Xylol or Acetone. Recoat PropGlide using the application guidelines.

How to Apply Propspeed

Propspeed ReviewPropspeed is a coating system designed and proven to increase vessels’ speed and fuel efficiency and greatly reduce marine growth from bonding to metal surfaces below the waterline. Propspeed works because it’s slick, not because it’s toxic.

The Propspeed system can be applied to any metal surface below the waterline, including propellers, shafts, bow thrusters, rudders, trim tabs, struts, stabilizers, sea chests, sea strainers, keel coolers and through hull fittings. The Clear Top Coat without the use of the etching primer can be used on plastic based items such as underwater lights, composite propellers and plastic bow thrusters.

Propspeed System Limitationspropspeed application

The Propspeed  system has been developed over many years of trial and error and has been refined to give exceptional performance throughout the world.

• The preparation and application instructions should be followed to ensure you get a satisfactory result. Taking shortcuts will reduce the durability and longevity of the system.

• Propspeed should only be applied by a qualified applicator.

• As with any coating systems, environmental influences will vary the cure rate of the coatings and this needs to be taken into account by the applicator.

• We recommend a minimum application temperature of 5°C or 40°F with recommended humidity not exceeding 85%.

• Electrolysis of a vessel or even a vessel moored nearby can adversely affect the coating system of the running gear. Marinas with 400 volt supply to vessels are more prone to neighbors’ vessels being affected.

• Propspeed clear coat is a soft coating and is easily damaged by mechanical abrasion, fi shing tackle or ropes around the running gear. Vessels used in shallow, sandy areas are also prone to mechanical abrasion of the clear coat.

• Vessel owners using a dive service should inform their diver that Propspeed has been applied to the running gear, and any other areas, so that the diver can use proper cleaning methods to avoid damaging the Prospeed system.

• The Propspeed system is not recommended nor approved for use in aquaculture or contact with food products.

Propspeed Application Process

The Propspeed  application is a simple process, involving surface preparation, metal conditioning and a catalyzed etching primer, followed by a silicone based topcoat.

The process to apply Propspeed to your running gear isn’t difficult, but the process must be strictly adhered to in order to get a superior result. For this reason we strongly recommend using a Propspeed approved applicator, or an experienced marine painter.

Propspeed doesn’t require any special equipment in its application. All you need is: a dual action sander, some 80 grit sandpaper, both wet and dry, plenty of rags, plastic mixing containers, disposable brushes, disposable foam rollers, disposable plastic paint trays, mixing sticks, paper paint suits, disposable gloves, eye protection and dust sanding mask.

The application of Propspeed  can be broken down into five separate stages:

1. Metal surface preparation – sanding the surface or using Propstrip

2. Initial clean – using Propclean

3. Metal conditioning – using Propprep

4. Metal etching primer

5. Clear coat top coat

—————————————-

1. Metal surface preparation – sanding the surface or using Propstrip

As is the case with all surface coatings the preparation of the surface to be coated for the application of Propspeed is key. The old Propspeed coating needs to be removed completely before the new system can be applied.

Any previously applied Propspeed on propellers, rudders and drive shafts should be high pressure cleaned, removing all marine foul from surfaces, then be allowed sufficient time to thoroughly dry.

Propspeed can be removed by sanding using 80-grit sandpaper. A dual action or air driven sander can be used and difficult areas wet sanded by hand.

Propstrip Option

New to our range is the revolutionary Propstrip. This is a safe, low toxicity remover that is totally water neutralized. The product can reduce the labour cost to remove Propspeed by up to 70%, as well as reducing dust and noise in the boat yard, and cutting the expense of abrasives.

For yards without a water catchment process, this system also enables all of the waste and removed product to be captured and processed to a waste container. For this process we recommend the use of hessian or burlap sacking placed under the area, so the removed product washes off onto the sacking. The water will drain through the hessian sacking, capturing the old Propspeed, and the hessian sacking can be rolled up and all waste placed in the waste container.

Good work practice is always recommended with the wearing of protective hand and eyewear.

Mask off any surface of the vessel that the Propstrip could splash or drip onto.

Propstrip does the hard work for you. It’s easy to apply and easy to remove following these simple instructions:

• Make sure the area you are working with is totally dry: Propstrip DOES NOT like any moisture. Water de-activates the Propstrip completely.

• Ensure any areas that are not being treated are adequately protected from Propstrip.

• Dependent on the remaining wear layer of the silicone topcoat the Propspeed may first need to be abraded with 80 grit sandpaper. This enables the Propstrip to work more effectively by penetrating the silicone faster.

• Apply Propstrip liberally with a brush ensuring there is a thick coating on 100% of the surface being treated allowing for complete saturation of the part.

• In cold conditions, 10-15°C or 50-60°F, it could take up to 3 hours to release the old Propspeed or if colder, it may take longer than 3 hours.

• In hot conditions above 35°C or 95°F it may be necessary to ensure the treated area is in shade to prevent the application from drying out while performing its action. The product works faster in hot conditons, so within 1 to 3 hours you should begin to visually observe the discoloration of the old Propspeed.

• When the product has started to bubble and change colour, this is a good sign that it is doing its job. Test a small area with a scraper to see if it will freely release from the substrate. Once ready, wash with a hose or a bucket of water and a Scotch-Brite pad.

• Any remaining product is removed using a wet Scotch-Brite pad or wet/dry sandpaper.

2. Initial clean – using Propclean

Once the surface to be coated has had the old Propspeed chemically or mechanically removed its now time to clean the surface with the Propclean solution.

From this stage of the application forward there should be no direct hand contact with the areas that are to be coated with Propspeed. The reason for this is that the oils on your fingers and hands will be transferred to the surface that is to be coated and this may cause the coating to fail. Plastic or latex gloves should be worn at all times. If you need to change  gloves frequently then do so. Make sure you have an abundance of rags on hand for the next two steps.

Clean the surface with Propclean. Immediately wipe the surface with a clean dry rag. Repeat until there is no residue left.

3. Metal conditioning – using Propprep

Apply Propprep solution liberally with a clean rag or use the Propprep wipes. Immediately wipe the surface with a clean dry rag to ensure no residue is left.

Propprep is essential in the chemical preparation of the metal substrate to be coated with Propspeed. It contains ingredients that react with the metal creating a surface porous layer. This porous layer is key to ensuring penetration and completion of the self etching reaction of the primer to the metal substrate. Propprep also ensures that no free alkalinity, as a result of various soap/detergent washing, is present to interfere with the self etching primer reaction and adhesion to the metal substrate.

4. Metal Etching Primer

Ambient temperature has an effect on the application of Propspeed and the drying times of the Metal Etching Primer and the Clear Top Coat. We recommend a minimum temperature of 5°C or 40°F.

It is recommended to avoid applying the product in direct sunlight or humidity above 85%.

Open the can of etching primer. The yellow pigment in the bottom of the can must be thoroughly

mixed before adding the etching primer hardener. This can be done quite easily using a mixing stick or Propspeed Paint Stir Wheels. This usually takes no more than two or three minutes.

Note: Failure to thoroughly mix the etching primer base, as described above, may lead to premature hardening, inconsistencies and short life expectancy of the final coating system.

Once the etching primer base has been thoroughly stirred and there are no solids left in the bottom of the can you can now add the etching primer hardener to the etching primer base. The mixing ratio of etching primer base to etching primer hardener is four parts base to one part hardener. However we recommend that you mix the etching primer hardener right into the etching primer base container thereby ensuring an accurate measurement. Once mixed together, use immediately. Any product not being used immediately can be left in the sealed can in the shade for up to six hours. You can apply your primer with brushes and or foam rollers. For spray applications, please consult your Propspeed Technical Representative regarding specialized projects such as keel coolers and sea strainers.

The application process must be well planned due to times in between coats and may require two applicators. The timing of each coat is essential to enable the required chemical bond between coats.

The Propspeed system requires two generous coats of etching primer. To access all parts of the propeller and shaft we recommend turning the prop using a brush, wooden stick, or gloved hands. Once you have applied the first coat of etching primer wait approximately 3 to 5 minutes before applying the next coat.

To test if it is ready use the dry-to-touch test method.

If you take your index finger in a glove and touch the wet etching primer and it leaves a small print on the primed surface but no etching primer transfers to your fingertip of your glove, then you can begin applying the next coat. The wait between coats of etching primer is very important and must be adhered to. Make sure you have some idea of how time is progressing.

Using 27°C or 80°F as a benchmark you have 3 to 5 minutes from the start of applying the fi rst coat of etching primer to the start of applying the second.

Cooler temperatures will slow down the recoat time between the two coats, as will warmer temperatures and windy conditions speed-up the recoat time between the two.

5. Clear Top Coat

Before applying the clear coat take another paint stick and stir the clear coat so you have a smooth, homogeneous mixture in the can. The 3 to 5 minute wait between coats applies here too – use the dry to touch test to check if the etching primer has dried suffi ciently before applying the clear coat. Apply the clear coat with a brush only, NO foam roller application is to be used here. The clear coat is applied and brushed much like conventional varnish. As with the etching primer to access all parts of the propeller and shaft we recommend turning the prop using a brush, wooden stick or gloved hands.

Make sure there are no heavy runs or sags in the clear coat. You’ll have anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes to touch these up. Any drips that harden on the edges of the propeller blades can be carefully cut off the following day.

Make sure the surface is completely coated with clear coat. Any missed areas will appear dull in luster.

When you have fi nished coating the entire propeller with clear coat, give the propeller one more visual inspection just to make sure there are no areas that you might have missed and to check again that there are no runs in the clear coat.

Once the running gear has been coated clean up the contaminated waste products and dispose of as required by your local council or marine laws.

Propspeed requires a minimum of eight hours to dry before launching. In cold conditions, 5-13°C / 40-60°F, we recommend at least 24 hours drying before launching. Unlike traditional bottom paints Propspeed’s effectiveness is not adversely affected by sitting out of the water for extended periods of time in warm or cold climates. Any coated areas will need to be protected from damage.

Propspeed Tips

• Application of Propspeed requires planning so make sure you have all of the required application equipment and thoroughly understand the process.

• Wear protective respiratory, eye and skin protection.

• Remember to remove all of the solids at the bottom of the primer container and stir it into a homogeneous mixture before applying the primer hardener.

• Be sure to keep track of time between etching primer coats and the clear coat. The 3 to 5 minute re-coat windows are critical and subject to your ambient application temperature.

• Be sure and brush out sags or drips in the etching primer before applying the clear coat.

• Install all zincs or tape off areas where zinc anodes will be placed before applying Propspeed. Be sure to carefully remove any tape that has been applied before the Prospeed is fully cured.

• When coating the blades of the propeller remember to start in the hub area and work your way out to the end of the blade.

• The Propprep solution does not contain corrosive inhibitors so the treated surface should be primed and coated with the clear coat as soon as possible after being treated, and defi nitely within 4 hours.

• When applying the clear coat be sure to stretch the material out just as you would on the last coat of varnish on any bright work.

• We highly recommend two people work together on each application.

• After completing the application of the clear coat, visually observe all areas, ensuring there are no misses or gaps. The clear coat will dry to a glossy fi nish, helping the applicator fi nd any uncoated areas.

• During cleaning of your hull only use a soft cloth on the Propspeed. If the wiping cloth collects shells remove them before proceeding with the wipe down so as not to damage the Propspeed. Avoid any abrasive cleaning materials or direct high-pressure water.

• When hauling your vessel assess the Propspeed condition and reapply if necessary. Most owners reapply Propspeed at the same time as antifoul.

Propspeed Frequently Asked Questions

How does Propspeed work? Propspeed’s unique “foul release” formulation produces a surface that does not allow marine growth to permanently attach.

• What are the benefits of Propspeed? Propspeed will keep your running gear free from marine growth and will increase your vessel’s speed and reduce your fuel consumption.

• Is Propspeed environmentally friendly? Yes. Propspeed contains no tin, copper, biocides or pesticides.

• Is Propspeed good value? Absolutely! For years boaters have asked for a coating to keep their running gear free of marine growth. Propspeed not only delivers a coating that answers this call, but will deliver higher speeds and fuel savings, when compared with unprotected running gear.

• How long should Propspeed last on my vessel? Propspeed should last at least one year but many customers report up to two years of service.

• Do I need anything to maintain my Propspeed application? Propspeed’s unique “foul release” formulation is self-cleaning. However, it is acceptable if your diver gently wipes Propspeed with a non-abrasive cloth, rinsing frequently to avoid collecting shells.

• Can I haul my vessel multiple times without having to re-apply Propspeed? Yes. Propspeed can be hauled and launched multiple times without affecting its performance.

• Who should apply Propspeed to my vessel? We recommend that you have a certified applicator apply Propspeed to your vessel.

• Can I use Propspeed on my Kiwi Props? Yes you can. Preparation is similar to any other Propspeed application, except you do not need to apply the etching primer, just apply the Clear Coat after normal preparation.

• Can I spray Propspeed? We do not recommend the spraying of the clear top coat as it is a silicone based product which can easily contaminate other vessels in the yard if not handled correctly.

• Where can I find the Safety Data Sheets and the Technical Data Sheets on Propspeed products? See the links below.

The above information was obtained via the Propspeed Application Manual and updated 8/29/2016. For the most up-to-date information please review the Propspeed OceanMax website.

Helpful Links:

Propspeed Application Guidelines

Propspeed Coverate Rates

Propspeed Technical Data:

Propspeed Etching Primer Techincal Data Sheet

Propspeed Clear Coat Techincal Data Sheet

Propspeed Safety Data

Propspeed Etching Primer SDS (MSDS)

Propspeed Clear Coat SDS (MSDS)

Note: Propspeed™ is a registered trademark of Oceanmax. Bottom Paint Store is not affiliated with Propspeed or Oceanmax in anyway. Above Propspeed prices and PropGlide Prices are based on internet web search October 2016 .

How to Prevent Growth on Boat Propellers and Running Gear

So you have gone to the expense of applying bottom paint to your boat, and now you have to ask the question “what about propeller paint and running gear paint? Just like the rest of the bottom of the boat, marine growth will cover the props and running gear if left unprotected. This will lead to loss of power and speed. With severe growth, you can even lose the ability to get the boat on plane.

There are a few options for keeping growth off your propellers and running gear and we will explore advantages and disadvantages for applying various coatings to your propellers and running gear. Keep in mind that when you paint props and running gear they are under extreme conditions with speed, cavitation, electrolysis and environmental conditions ( like running through sand or hitting ground or objects). These can cause the same result as sandblasting your running gear – something you will want to avoid after you choose a coating!

Foul release coatings are very smooth, extremely low friction coatings typically based on silicone or fluoropolymers. The combination of low friction and low surface energy is the physical mechanism behind its fouling release. In addition to preventing biofouling, they increase fuel efficiency  by providing more efficiencies to the engine and therefore less fuel is burned resulting in cost savings.

1. PropGlide Foul Release Coating | The Best Solution for Preventing Growth on Props and Running Gear

Advantages: Best adhesion, best performance, actual increase in speed, lowest risk of electrolysis issues, non-toxic
Disadvantages: Higher Cost, Environmental Variables (sand, running aground), Detailed application

Foul Release Systems provide the best solution to keeping growth of your props and running gear. While these are not antifouling prop paints, they do keep the growth off buy creating a super slippery surface that the marine growth cannot stick to. Propspeed recommends that their kits by applied by a professional Propspeed applicator. On the other hand, PropGlide is available for any DIY applicator and is less costly and more product for the money. If you want to apply this yourself, be sure to follow the details in the respective application manuals.   You can find these on any of the Propeller Foul Release Kit listed on our website.

PropGlide and Propspeed are foul release systems that are applied to underwater metals including props and running gears. These foul release coatings are sold in kits ranging from 175ML, 200ML, 500ML, and 1000ML Kits. You can view the all of our Foul Release Coatings to determine which kit size if right for you.

2. Paint the Props and Running Gear with Bottom Paint

Advantages: Lower cost option
Disadvantages: Trouble staying on, electrolysis concerns, Environmental Variables (sand, running aground)

Applying bottom paint to your underwater gear is a little tricky because there are additional steps that must be taken before applying the bottom paint. Especially if you have a fiberglass boat. Most bottom paints contain copper that act as a biocide and prevent growth. However, when applying bottom paint (with copper) to metal, you create a battery effect with the metal on metal. This leads to electrolysis and pitting of your props and running gear. Follow these basic steps before going with this option.

Basic Steps

  1. Prep: Make sure to remove all prior coatings and contaminants prior to applying any coatings. The should be done by a sandblasting, soda blasting, or a good ole fashioned sanding. The recommended grit and profile should be 80 grit. This will provide a efficient surface for the new coating to adhere.
  2. Tuff Stuff Marine Epoxy PrimerPrimer: Apply a two part high build epoxy primer that is designed to prevent corrosion and enhance adhesion. The best we have found is Sea Hawk Tuff Stuff High Build Epoxy Primer. It is easy to use and works extremely well. Apply two coats!
  3. Bottom Paint: Apply a hard modified epoxy bottom paint with not too high a load of copper. Sea Hawk Sharkskin hard paint is a great choice! The epoxy primer will insulate the copper bottom paint from the metal of the props and Sea Hawk Smart Solution Outdrive Paintrunning gear (remember the battery effect!) If you are concerned about electrolysis or already have some issues, then you should use a copper free bottom paint. The only true metal free bottom paint that we found and that still is effective in preventing growth is Sea Hawk Smart Solution. Either way, be sure to apply the first coat of bottom paint the same day as the 2nd coat of epoxy primer. If you don’t, it will not stick!

3. Aerosol Sprays

Advantages: Lowest cost option
Disadvantages: Trouble staying on, ineffective antifouling performance, electrolysis concerns if copper based, Environmental Variables (sand, running aground).

There are a few aerosol spray systems that can be used, but these are generally ineffective for props and running gear, and are reserved for outdrive applications. These include Interlux Trilux 33 and Primocon, Pettit Alumaspray and Prop Coat Barnacle Barrier, and the Sea Hawk Premium Outdrive Kit that contains Smart Solution (brush on Pint) and Barnacle Blocker. Our advice is to save your money before applying these to props and running gear.

Note: Propspeed™ is a registered trademark of Oceanmax. Bottom Paint Store is not affiliated with Propspeed or Oceanmax in anyway. Above Propspeed prices and PropGlide Prices are based on internet web search October 2016 .

How to Paint a Boot Stripe

What is a Boot Stripe?

The Boot Stripe is a narrow stripe that runs the length of the boat and is usually positioned a few inches above the waterline. The stripe provides an aesthetic touch and creates an optical illusion that makes the boat appear to be longer. It also gives the boat a nice “finished” appearance that many boaters take pride in. Boot stripes also define the separation between anti-fouling paint (below) and the topside paint (above). Vinyl boot stripe tape is available in different widths, colors, and designs, but unless the boat has a flat, slab side this will make the boat appear to sag or squat in the water. Painting the boot stripe on the hull allows the width to change with the geometry of the boat and give the finished stripe a uniform look. Repainting an existing Boot Stripe will be easier than starting from scratch since you won’t have to mark and score the stripe.

Find and mark the Boot Stripe. The boot stripes of many fiberglass hulls are cast into the hull from the mold by the manufacturer. They can only be removed if you sand down to the fiberglass.

If there is no stripe on your hull you will need to mark the waterline on your boat and transcribe it up to the desired height of your stripe. This can be done by applying successive layers of masking tape along the waterline curve. There are other numerous methods worth investigating online. Also, consult a professional and ask them questions about your specific boat.

Mask off the stripe with tape and get within 1/32nd in. to the edges of the old stripe. This will allow you to sand to the very edge of the old stripe, and avoid damaging the surrounding gel coat.

bootstripeinstallDe-wax the stripe area using a de-waxing solution and a rag.

Sand only the stripe area with 220 grit sandpaper. Once sanding is complete, remove the masking tape and wipe the area with acetone. This will remove any remaining adhesive and sanding remnants. Sacrificing the first mask will contribute to a sharper finish. It is possible that the first application of tape can transfer sanding residue to the paint and result in a poor finish. Mask twice and you will only have to paint once! Be sure to take your time with the second masking. Remember: If the stripe doesn’t look good in tape, it will look even worse once painted. Now you’re ready to paint!

What type of paint should I use?

There are many different varieties of topside paint suitable for painting a boot stripe, but we have narrowed it down to just a few options for you.

Good: Duralux Marine Enamel – Easy to use and economically viable. When applying this marine enamel to fiberglass, no primer is needed. Simply wipe the surface with acetone before and after sanding, then apply your paint. For aluminum, apply one coat of primer and follow with 2 coats of paint. This high gloss enamel will create a bright and colorful boot stripe on any vessel.

interlux-brightside-polyurethane-28238-500x539Better: Interlux Brightside or Blue Water Mega Gloss– These are a one part Polyurethane with a crisp, high gloss appearance. More durable than regular enamels, but just as easy to apply! If you are applying Brightside or Mega Gloss to fiberglass, make sure the surface is clean and in good condition.  Application of Mega Gloss Water: blast surface to remove all loose paint, dirt, oils and grease. Abrade with 240 grit dry sandpaper or equivalent. Solvent wipe down to remove all sanding residue. Prime with Mega Gloss Primer for best results.  For Brightside, remove wax and other contaminants using Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 and then sand with 220-320 grit paper. Apply Pre-Kote. Brightside offers excellent flow and gloss retention especially for painting a boot stripe.

 

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Problems with Paint Application Q & A

Insufficient Adhesion

Symptoms: The coating adheres insufficiently to the substrate or previous coats.

Cause: Unsuitable primer applied Wrong product Damp substrate during painting Contaminated substrate (not cleaned or degreased) Weathered timber not removed before coating Previous Coating Unstable Solution

Coating layers that are not sound should be removed. Substrate problem should be addressed (cleaning, degreasing, sanding etc.). Apply a new, suitable coating system.

Insufficient Flexibility

Symptoms: A crackle effect or cracking appears.

Cause: Different paint systems intermixed Too brittle paint system caused by ageing Applied product cannot follow the movements of the substrate and/or underlying paint layers Solution

Remove all coating and apply a new, suitable coating system.

Peeling of Coating

Symptoms: Total/local loss of adhesion of paint system.

Cause: Internal tension in paint films Deformation of substrate Humidity or gas formation Wrong paint sytem Several layers are applied which are not compatible with each other Insufficient flexibility of applied paint Cracking originating from substrate Paint system applied to damp substrate or one with a high moisture content. Solution

Paint layers that are not sound should be removed. After the appropriate pretreatment, a new system should be applied. Touch up bare spots with primer/undercoat and finish with topcoat.

Saponification

Symptoms: The coating is not resistant to alkali. Blisters appear, paint softens and flakes off.

Cause: Incorrect use of product Application of alkyd based topcoat to alkaline material (e.g. concrete or cement) Humidity problems Caustic stripped surface not neutralised Solution

Remove all paint layers and apply a new alkali resistent system. Prevent water penetration. Apply an alkali resistent system.

Soft Paint Film

Symptoms: The dry film has a soft and weak character.

Cause: Paint applied too thickly Painted during impossible working conditions With two-component products the wrong mixing ratio is used Solution

Paint layers that are not sound should be completely removed. Apply a suitable protection system and allow a longer drying time to improve the conditions under which it is painted.

Floating / Flooding

Symptoms: Multi colored effect.

Cause: One of the pigments used floats to the surface causing a multi colored effect (happens mostly with blue, green and violet pigments) Solution

Sand after drying. Apply a further top coat which doesn’t ‘float’.

Salt Efflorescence

Symptoms: A white salt deposit appears, usually on plywood or brickwork.

Cause: Occurs with some plywoods Excess salts migrate to surface through coating Solution

Clean down. May re-occur. Apply freshen up coats if necessary.

Haziness (Blooming)

Symptoms: At the surface a greyish haze appears which gives the paint a dull glow.

Cause: Fog and/or humidity during drying Insufficient ventilation Coating over-thinned Solution

Sand and apply a new top coat.

Yellowing

Symptoms: The applied pale color turns yellow.

Cause: With an alkyd based topcoat this is intrinsic to the binder.

Solution: Sand and clean. Often solved by altering the chosen color to a grayish option, which makes the problem less visible. Apply waterbased paints, which are less prone to yellowing.

Lifting

Symptoms: A wrinkling effect immediately after painting.

Cause: The applied coat contains aggressive components which will dissolve the undercoat Softening, swelling or separation from the substrate of a dry coat as the result of the application of a subsequent coat Solution

Apply another type of paint as topcoat or remove old paint layers and apply a new paint system. Use compatible paint products.

Algae Growth

Symptoms: The coating surface shows a green growth, usually on north facing timbers.

Cause: Plants, bushes and trees in close proximity to coating system. High humidity of surroundings and/or moisture content of substrate Solution

Remove / kill algae/mold and clean substrate. Treat with a fungicidal (or diluted bleach) solution. Scrub dead spores loose, rinse clean and allow to dry fully. Where necessary, redecorate with suitable coating.

Sagging

Symptoms: Localized “drips” and “tears” appear.

Cause: Paint not applied evenly over the surface Coats applied too heavily Paint doesn’t have the right consistency (incorrect thinning) Solution

Remove by sanding after thorough drying is completed. Apply the coatings thoroughly and and evenly. Apply at the proper viscosity and the recommended wet film thickness.

Blistering

Symptoms: Large or small blisters, possibly only in topcoats of the system.

Generally only local loss of adhesion of paint system.

Cause: Application over localized contamination (e.g. grease, oil, resin) Humidity or gas vapour formation from the substrate Solvent could be trapped between coats of the paint system if the primer or mid coat has not been allowed to dry fully. Incorrect coating system, e.g. quick drying top coat, at which the contained organic solvent causes blisters. Solution

Coating layers that are not sound should be removed. After the right pre-treatment against moisture penetration, a new system should be applied. Touch up bare spots with primer and finish with finish topcoat.

Bleeding

Symptoms: The bleeding through of contents of the substrate through existing paint layers or systems.

Cause: Certain timbers such as Western Red Cedar, Oak, Meranti or Idigbo are prone to bleeding Chemicals within timbers prone to bleeding (i.e. timbers with a high natural extractive content) are mobilized by water Colors from previous coatings such as bitumen or creosote can bleed through Problem more prevalent with water-borne coatings. Solution

Clean the coating surface to make sure that the bleeding components have been removed and apply a fresh coating system. Apply sufficient layer thickness to prevent water from dissolving the bleeding wood content. Apply a full primer. Finish with one or two coats of finish.

Chalking

Symptoms: The paint system shows a powdery surface.

Cause: Normal ageing effect Insufficient outdoor durability of product Product property (high extender content/pigment content/based on epoxy resin) Solution

Remove powder at the surface. Clean and sand substrate. Touch up bare spots. Finish with one or two coats.

Craters

Symptoms: Contamination of the substrate (e.g. silicone, grease, wax) causes surface defects . This results in areas where the coating does not form a complete film over the substrate.

Cause: Often a silicone or wax contamination Surface not cleaned sufficiently before application When spray-applied: poor film formation Open pored timber Solution

Clean surface with a suitable emulsion cleaner or silicone remover where appropriate. It may be necessary to remove affected coatings. Primer or base stain should be worked/brushed well into open pored timbers.

Fish Eyes

Symptoms: Contamination of the substrate (e.g. silicone, grease, wax) causes surface defects This results in areas where the coating does not form a complete film over the substrate.

Cause: Usually a (silicone) contamination Insufficiently cleaned substrate When spray-applied: poor film formation solution.

Sand thoroughly. Clean surface thoroughly with a suitable emulsion cleaner or silicone remover. Finish with one or more topcoats.

Brushmarks

Brush marks, orange peel poor leveling etc.

Cause: The open time of the product is too short Incorrect dilution Unsuitable brush or roller Application conditions too hot or too cold Solution

Sand thoroughly and apply a further coat to a better standard. Use a good quality brush (synthetic for water-borne coatings

Blushing

Symptoms: When humidity is trapped in wood stains or varnishes, white spots/patches may appear.

Cause: Damp substrate or humid atmosphere when coating was applied or during drying Porous varnish/stain type Water getting in (moisture ingress) Insufficient coats applied, or coats applied too thinly Solution

Remove old varnish/stain layers; if necessary treat with wood bleach, which will restore the original wood color. Consequently treat with a new system.

Cracking

Symptoms: The coating system shows localized cracking, which results in loss of adhesion and flaking.

Cause: Internal stresses of coating system Deformation or breakdown of the substrate e.g. joints opening, splits in the timber Unsuitable coating system Several layers are applied which are not compatible Insufficient flexibility of applied paint Cracking originating from substrate Moisture on substrate at application Solution

Coating layers that are not sound should be removed. After the right pretreatment, a new system should be applied. Touch up bare spots with primer and finish.

Crackle Formation

Symptoms: A crackle effect appears, random cracks all over the surface

Cause: Coating system too brittle for the substrate Layers applied too thickly Coatings applied at too low temperature and/or too high relative humidity Applied product cannot follow the movements of the substrate Contamination between layers Solution

Coating layers that are not sound should be removed. After the right pre-treatment, a new system should be applied.

Flaking

Symptoms: Loss of adhesion of coating system on substrate or loss of intercoat adhesion.

Cause: Insufficient cleaning / degreasing Unsuitable system Insufficiently sanded Damp substrate or high moisture content Condensation on substrate at application Solution Coating layers that are not sound shall be removed. After the correct pretreatment, a new system should be applied. Apply suitable primer/base stain and top coat(s).

Paint Problem Solver

 

PAINT BLISTERING:
blisteringBubbles may be seen resulting from localized loss of adhesion, and lifting of the paint film from the underlying surface.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Applying solvent-based paint over a damp or wet surface. Moisture seeping into the substrate from the outside (less likely with water-based paint). Exposure to high to high humidity or moisture during application or shortly after paint has dried, especially if there was inadequate surface preparation. Entrapment of air in the pores of the substrate being painted. Entrapment of solvents which is commonly caused when paint is over coated before the solvents have sufficiently released.
SOLUTION: If blisters do not go all the way down to the substrate: Remove blisters by scraping, and sanding, and repaint. Be sure to apply when humidity is below 75% and with good ventilation. If blisters go down to the substrate: Remove the source of moisture. Repair loose coatings; install vents or exhaust fans where possible. Remove blisters as above, remembering to prime before applying the top coat. Seal porous substrates  before priming or painting. This will prevent air from being trapped under the paint causing blisters or moisture intrusion.
NOTE: Always test for moisture and humidity to confirm the substrate is ready to prime or paint. Never overcoat paint that is still releasing solvents.

BLOCKING:
blockingUndesirable sticking together of two painted surfaces when pressed together (e.g., a door sticking to the jamb).
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Not allowing sufficient dry time for the coating before closing doors or windows. Use of low quality satin or gloss paints.
SOLUTION: Use top quality satin or gloss acrylic water-based paint. Low quality water-based paints can have poor block resistance, especially in warm, damp conditions. Follow paint label instructions regarding dry times. Acrylic water-based paints generally have better early block resistance than vinyl acetate co-polymer based paints or solvent-based paints; however, solvent-based paints develop superior block resistance over time. Application of talcum powder can relieve persistent blocking.

BURNISHING:
burnishIncrease in gloss or sheen of paint film when subjected to rubbing, scrubbing or having an object brush up against it.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of matte paint in high traffic areas, where a higher sheen level would be desirable. Frequent washing and spot cleaning. Objects (furniture, for example) rubbing against the walls. Use of lower grades of paint with poor stain and scrub resistance (see Poor Stain Resistance and Poor Scrub Resistance).
SOLUTION: Paint heavy wear areas that require regular cleaning (e.g., doors, window sills and trim) with a top quality water-based paint, because this type of paint offers both durability and easier cleaning capability. In high traffic areas, choose a satin or gloss rather than a matt sheen level. Clean painted surfaces with a soft cloth or sponge and non-abrasive cleansers; rinse with clean water.

CHALKING:
chalkingFormation of fine powder on the surface of the paint film during weathering which can cause color fading. Although some degree of chalking is a normal, desirable way for a paint film to wear, excessive film erosion can result from heavy chalking.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of a low-grade, highly pigmented paint. Use of an interior paint for an outdoor application.
SOLUTION: First, remove as much of the chalk residue as possible, scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush (or wire brush on masonry) and then rinse thoroughly; or use power washing equipment. Check for any remaining chalk by running a hand over the surface after it dries. If noticeable chalk is still present, apply a quality oil-based or acrylic latex primer (or comparable sealer for masonry), then repaint with a quality exterior coating; if little or no chalk remains and the old paint is sound, no priming is necessary.

CRACKING / FLAKING:
cracking_flakingThe splitting of a dry paint film through at least one coat as a result of aging, which ultimately will lead to complete failure of the paint. In its early stages, the problem appears as hairline cracks; in its later stages, flaking occurs.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of lower quality paint that has inadequate adhesion and flexibility. Over thinning or overspreading the paint. Inadequate surface preparation, or applying the paint to bare wood without first applying a primer. Excessive hardening of solvent-based paint as the paint job ages.
SOLUTION: Remove loose and flaking paint with a scraper or wire brush, sanding the surface and feathering the edges. If the flaking occurs in multiple layers of paint, use of a face filler may be necessary. Prime bare wood areas before repainting. Use of a top quality primer and top coat should prevent a recurrence of the problem.

DIRT PICK UP:
dirtpickupAccumulation of dirt, dust particles and/or other debris on the paint film; may resemble mildew.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of a low quality paint, especially lower grades of satin or semi-gloss. Soil splashing onto siding. Air pollution, car exhaust and flying dust collecting on house body and horizontal trim.
SOLUTION: Wash off all surface dirt before priming and painting, using a scrub brush and detergent solution, followed by a thorough rinsing with a garden hose. Heavier dirt accumulations may require the use of a power washer. While dirt pickup can’t be eliminated entirely, top quality exterior latex paints typically offer superior dirt pickup resistance and wash-ability. Also, higher gloss paints are more resistant to dirt pickup than flat paints, which are more porous and can more easily entrap dirt.

FOAMING / CRATERING:
foamingFormation of bubbles (foaming) and resulting small, round concave depressions (cratering) when bubbles break in a paint film, during paint application and drying.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Shaking a partially filled can of paint. Use of low quality paint or very old water based paints. Applying (especially rolling) paint too rapidly. Use of a roller cover with wrong nap length. Excessive rolling or brushing of the paint. Applying a gloss or satin paint over a porous surface.
SOLUTION: All paints will foam to some degree during application; however, higher quality paints are formulated so the bubbles break while the paint is still wet, allowing for good flow and appearance. Avoid excessive rolling or brushing of the paint or using paint that is more than a year old. Apply gloss and satin paints with a short nap roller, and apply an appropriate sealer or primer before using such paint over a porous surface. Problem areas should be sanded before repainting.

FROSTING:
frostingA white, salt-like substance on the paint surface. Frosting can occur on any paint color, but it is less noticeable on white paint or lighter tints. On masonry, it can be mistaken for efflorescence (see Efflorescence and Mottling).
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Forms mostly in protected areas (such as under eaves and on porch ceilings) that do not receive the cleansing action of rain, dew and other moisture. Use of dark-colored paints that have been formulated with calcium carbonate extender.
Application of a dark-colored paint over a paint or primer containing calcium carbonate extender.
SOLUTION: Frosting can be a stubborn problem. It often cannot be washed off readily. Moreover, the condition can recur even as a bleed-through when a new top coat is applied. In extreme cases, it can interfere with adhesion. The best remedy is to remove the frosting by wire brushing masonry or sanding wood surfaces; rinse, then apply an alkyd-based primer before adding a coat of high quality exterior paint.

INCOMPATIBILITY:
incompatibilityLoss of adhesion where many old coats of alkyd or oil-based paint receive a latex top coat.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of water-based latex paint over more than three or four coats of old alkyd or oil-based paint may cause the old paint to “lift off” the substrate.
SOLUTION: Repaint using another coat of alkyd or oil-based paint. Or completely remove the existing paint and prepare the surface – cleaning, sanding and spot-priming where necessary – before repainting with a top quality latex exterior paint.

LAPPING:
InteriorLapping_thumbAppearance of a denser color or increased gloss where wet and dry layers overlap during paint application.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Failure to maintain a “wet edge” when painting. Use of a low solids “economy” paint.
SOLUTION: Maintain a wet edge when painting by applying paint toward the unpainted area and then back into the just painted surface. This technique (brushing or rolling from “wet to dry” rather than vice versa) will produce a smooth uniform appearance. It is also wise to work in manageable size areas; plan for interruptions at a natural break, such as a window, door or corner. Using a top quality acrylic water based paint makes it easier to avoid lapping problems because higher solids (pigments and binder) content makes lapped areas less noticeable. If substrate is very porous, it may need a primer/sealer to
prevent paint form drying too quickly and reducing wet edge time. Solvent-based paints generally have superior wet edge properties.

FUNGAL CONTAMINATION:
Black, grey or brown spots or areas on the surface of paint or sealant.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, or receive little or no direct sunlight (e.g., bathrooms, kitchens and utility rooms). Use of a solvent-based paint, or lower quality water-based paint. Failure to prime bare wood surface before applying the paint. Painting over a substrate or coating on which fungal contamination has not been removed.
SOLUTION: Test for fungus by applying a few drops of household bleach to the area; if it is bleached away, the dis-colorant is probably fungus. Remove all fungus from the surface by scrubbing with a diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three parts water) or a fungicidal wash, while wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse thoroughly. To protect against fungal contamination, use a top quality water-based paint, and clean when necessary with bleach/detergent solution. Consider installing an exhaust fan (which is connected to a light switch) in high moisture areas. Some products, with fungicidal claims are available, which you may consider.

MOLD/MILDEW:
mildewinBlack, gray or brown spots or areas on the surface of paint or caulk.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, or receive little or no direct sunlight (e.g., bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms). Use of an alkyd or oil-based paint, or lower quality latex paint. Failure to prime bare wood surface before applying the paint. Painting over a substrate or coating on which mildew has not been removed.
SOLUTION: Test for mildew by applying a few drops of household bleach to the area; if it is bleached away, the dis-colorant is probably mildew. Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing with a diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three parts water), while wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse thoroughly. To protect against mildew, use a top quality latex paint, and clean when necessary with bleach/detergent solution. Consider installing an exhaust fan in high moisture areas.

MUD CRACKING:
mud_crackDeep, irregular cracks resembling dried mud in dry paint film.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Paint applied too thickly, usually over a porous surface. Paint applied too thickly, to improve inherent poor hiding (coverage) of a lower quality paint. Paint is allowed to build up in corners upon application.
SOLUTION: Remove coating by scraping and sanding. Prime and repaint, using a top quality water-based paint. Mud-cracked areas can also be repaired by sanding the surface smooth before repainting with a top quality water-based paint. This type of paint is likely to prevent recurrence of mud cracking, because it is relatively more flexible than solvent-based paint, and ordinary water-based paint. Quality paints have a higher solids content, which reduces the tendency to mud crack. They also have very good application and hiding properties, which minimize the tendency to apply too thick a coat of paint.

PEELING:
peelingLoss of paint due to poor adhesion. Where there is a primer and top coat, or multiple coats of paint, peeling may involve some or all coats.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Seepage of moisture through un-caulked joints, worn caulk or leaks in roof or walls. Moisture in the form of water, rain, dew or high humidity allowed on surface before it has fully cured. Excess moisture escaping through exterior walls (more likely if paint is oil-based). Inadequate surface preparation. Applying paint over a wet or contaminated surface. Improper application techniques. Earlier blistering of paint (see Blistering).
SOLUTION: Always make moisture assessment and planning part of paint preparation and application. Carefully schedule interior and exterior paint work during an acceptable weather window. Identify and eliminate moisture sources in advance. Prepare surface by removing all loose paint, contaminates and moisture. Strictly adhere to manufacturers application guidelines. Use paint and primer according to application instructions and standard industry practices. Thoroughly remove corrupted peeling paint, repaint with a top quality paint products.

PICTURE FRAMING:
picture_framingAn effect of non uniform color that can appear when a wall is painted with a roller, but is brushed at the corners, architraves and cornices. The brushed areas generally appear darker, resembling the “frame” of a “picture”. Also, sprayed areas may be darker than neighboring sections that are brushed or rolled. Picture framing can also refer to sheen effects.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Usually a hiding (coverage) effect. Brushing will generally result in lower spread rates than rolling, producing a thicker film and more hiding. Adding colorant to a non-tintable paint or using the wrong type or level of colorant, resulting in variation in color, depending on method of application.
SOLUTION: Make sure that spread rates with brushes and rollers are similar. Don’t cut in the entire room before roller coating. Work in smaller sections of the room to maintain a “wet edge.” With tinted paints, be sure the correct colorant-base combinations are used.

POOR FLOW / LEVELING:
poor flowFailure of paint to dry to a smooth film, resulting in unsightly brush and roller marks after the paint dries.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of lower quality paint. Application of additional paint to “touch up” partially dried painted areas. Re-brushing or re-rolling partially dried painted areas. Use of the wrong type of roller cover or poor quality brush.
SOLUTION: Use top quality water-based paints, which are generally formulated with ingredients that enhance paint flow. Brush and roller marks thus tend to “flow out” and form a smooth film. When using a roller, be sure to use a cover with the recommended nap length for the type of paint being used. Use of a high quality brush is important; a poor brush can result in bad flow and leveling with any paint.

POOR HIDE:
poor_hidingFailure of dried paint to obscure or “hide” the surface to which it is applied.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of low quality paint. Use of low quality tools/wrong roller cover. Use of an improper combination of tinting base and tinting color. Poor flow and leveling (see Poor Flow/Leveling). Use of a paint that is much lighter in color than the substrate, or that primarily contains low-hiding organic pigments such as yellows, reds and blues. Application of paint at a higher spread rate than recommended.                                                                                             SOLUTION: If the substrate is significantly darker or is a patterned wallpaper, it should be primed before applying a top coat. Use a top quality paint for better hiding and flow. Use quality tools; use the recommended roller nap, if rolling. Follow manufacturer’s recommendation on spread rate; if using tinted paint, use the correct tinting base. Where a low-hiding organic color must be used, apply a primer first.

POOR IMPRINT RESISTANCE:
poor_printThe tendency of paint film to take on the imprint of an object that is placed on it (e.g., a shelf, table, window sill or counter-top with books, dishes and other objects on them).
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of low quality satin or gloss paint. Putting a painted surface back into use before paint has fully dried.
SOLUTION: Use top quality acrylic satin or gloss water-based paint. Low quality water-based satin and gloss paints can have poor print resistance, especially in warm, damp conditions. Acrylic water-based paints generally have better print resistance than vinyl acetate co polymer type paints. Fully cured solvent-based paints also have excellent print resistance. Make sure the recommended “cure” time is allowed for the paint before it is put into service. Cool or humid conditions require more curing time.

POOR SCRUB RESISTANCE:
poor_scrubWearing away or removal of the paint film when scrubbed with a brush, sponge, or cloth.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Choosing the wrong sheen for the area. Use of a lower quality paint. Use of an overly aggressive scrub medium (see Burnishing). Inadequate dry time allowed after application of the paint before washing it.
SOLUTION: Areas that need frequent cleaning require a high quality paint formulated to provide such performance. High traffic areas may require a satin or gloss paint rather than a matte paint to provide good scrub resistance. Allow adequate dry time, as scrub resistance will not fully develop until the paint is thoroughly cured. Typically, this will be one week. Try washing the painted surface with the least abrasive material and mildest detergent first.

POOR SHEEN UNIFORMITY:
poor_sheenShiny spots or dull spots on a painted surface; uneven gloss.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Uneven spread rate. Failure to properly prime a porous surface, or surface with varying degrees of porosity. Poor application resulting in lapping (see Lapping).
SOLUTION: New substrates should be primed/sealed before applying the top coat to ensure a uniformly porous surface. Without the use of a primer or sealer, a second coat of paint will more likely be needed. Make sure to apply paint from “wet to dry” to prevent lapping. Often, applying an additional coat will even out sheen irregularities.

POOR STAIN RESISTANCE:
poor_stainFailure of the paint to resist absorption of dirt and stains.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of lower quality paint that is porous in nature. Application of paint to unprimed substrate.
SOLUTION: Higher quality water-based paints contain more binder, which helps prevent stains from penetrating the painted surface, allowing for easy removal. Priming new surfaces provides maximum film thickness of a premium top coat, providing very good stain removability.

“STIPPLE” / ROLLER MARKS:
roller_marksUnintentional textured pattern left in the paint by the roller.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of incorrect roller cover. Use of lower grades of paint. Use of low quality roller. Use of incorrect rolling technique.
SOLUTION: Use the proper roller cover; avoid too long a nap for the paint and the substrate. Use quality roller to ensure adequate film thickness and uniformity. High quality paints tend to roll on more evenly due to their higher solids content and leveling properties. Pre-dampen roller covers used with water-based paint; shake out excess water. Don’t let paint build up at roller ends. Begin rolling at a corner near the ceiling and work down the wall in sections. Spread the paint in a zigzag “M” or “W” pattern, beginning with an upward stroke to minimize spatter; then, without lifting the roller from the surface, fill in the zigzag pattern with even, parallel strokes. On doors, if rolled, lay off with a brush.

SPLATTER:
Interior_Roller_Spattering_thumbTendency of a roller to throw off small droplets of paint during application.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of exterior paint on an interior surface. Use of lower grades of water-based paints.
SOLUTION: Higher quality paints are formulated to minimize splattering. Using high quality rollers which have proper resiliency further reduce splattering. In some cases, a quality wall paint may be preferred for ceiling work, for maximum splatter resistance. Overloading the roller with paint will result in excess splatter, as will overworking the paint once it is applied to a substrate. Working in sections, applying the paint in a zigzag “M” or “W” pattern and then filling in the pattern will also lessen the likelihood of splattering.

SAGGING / RUNNING:
saggingDownward “drooping” movement of the paint film immediately after application, resulting in an uneven coating.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Application of a heavy coat of paint. Application in excessively humid and/or cool conditions. Application of over thinned paint. Airless spraying with the gun too close to the substrate being painted.
SOLUTION: If the paint is still wet, immediately brush out or re-roll to redistribute the excess evenly. If the paint has dried, sand, and reapply a new coat of top quality paint. Correct any unfavorable conditions: Do not thin the paint; avoid cool or humid conditions; sand glossy surfaces. Paint should be applied at its recommended spread rate; avoid “heaping on” the paint. Two coats of paint at the recommended spread rate are better than one heavy coat, which can also lead to sagging. Consider removing doors to paint them supported horizontally.

SEALANT FAILURES:
caulk_failLoss of sealant’s initial adhesion and flexibility, causing it to crack and/or pull away from the surfaces to which it has been applied.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Use of lower quality sealant. Use of wrong type of sealant for a particular application. Substrate not dry.
SOLUTION: Use a top quality water-based pure acrylic or silicon acrylic sealant if prolonged contact with water is not anticipated. These sealants are flexible enough to adapt to minor fluctuations in the substrate, stretching in gaps that widen slightly over time. They also adhere to a wide range of interior and exterior building materials, including wood, ceramic tile, concrete, plaster, bare aluminum, brick and
plastic. With glass as the substrate silicon sealants are most suitable.
NOTE: Silicone sealant should not be painted.

SURFACTANT LEACHING:
surfactantConcentration of water-soluble ingredients on the surface of a water-based paint, typically on a ceiling surface in rooms that have high humidity (e.g., shower, bathroom, kitchen); may be evident as tan or  brown spots or areas, and can sometimes be glossy, soapy or sticky.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: All water-based paint formulas will exhibit this tendency to some extent if applied in areas that become humid (bathrooms, for example), especially in ceiling areas.
SOLUTION: Wash the affected area with soap and water, and rinse. Problem may occur once or twice again before leaching material is completely removed. When paint is applied in a bathroom, it is helpful to have it dry thoroughly before using the shower. Remove all staining before repainting.

TANNIN STAINING:
tannin stainingBrownish or tan discoloration on the paint surface due to migration of tannins from the substrate through the paint film. Typically occurs on “staining woods,” such as redwood, cedar and mahogany, or over painted knots in certain other wood species.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Failure to adequately prime and seal the surface before applying the paint. Use of a primer that is not sufficiently stain-resistant. Excess moisture escaping through the exterior walls, which can carry the stain to the paint surface.
SOLUTION: Correct any possible sources of excess moisture (see Efflorescence and Mottling). After thoroughly cleaning the surface, apply a high quality stain- resistant oil-based or acrylic latex primer. Oil based stain-resistant primers are the best type to use on severely staining boards. In extreme cases, a second coat of primer can be applied after the first has dried thoroughly. Finish with a top quality latex paint.

WRINKLING:
wrinklingA rough, crinkled paint surface, which occurs when uncured paint forms a “skin”.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using solvent-based paints). Painting during extremely hot weather or cool damp weather, which causes the paint film to dry faster on top than on the bottom. Exposing uncured paint to high humidity levels. Painting over a contaminated surface (e.g., dirt or wax).
SOLUTION: Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. If using a primer, allow it to dry completely before applying top coat. Repaint (avoiding temperature/humidity extremes), applying an even coat of top quality interior paint.

YELLOWING:
yellowingDevelopment of a yellow cast in aging paint; most noticeable in the dried films of white paints or clear varnishes.
POSSIBLE CAUSES: Oxidation of solvent-based paint or varnish. Heat from ovens, radiators and heating ducts. Lack of light (e.g., behind pictures or appliances, inside cupboards, etc.).
SOLUTION: Top quality water-based paints do not tend to yellow, nor does non-yellowing varnish. Solvent-based paints, because of their curing mechanism, do tend to yellow, particularly in areas that are protected from sunlight.

Apply Paint Over Polyethylene, Polypropylene, ABS, and PET/PBT Blends

You can apply paint over Polyethylene, Polypropylene, ABS, and PET/PBT Blends with proper surface preparation and primer.

1. First wipes down the surface with a 50/50 Isopropyl Alcohol such as Denatured Alcohol to remove any contaminants prior to sanding.

2. Sand the surface with 60-80 grit sandpaper.

3. Wipe down the surface again with 50/50 Isopropyl Alcohol ( Denatured Alcohol ) to remove all sanding residue.

4. Apply 3M Tape Primer over a small section.M23929

5. Apply a small test section of the desired Topcoat paint. Since there are so many type of paints, it is recommended to perform an adhesion test on the small area painted. Once the paint has dried perform a hatch test. Use a razor blade to cut into the paint and the primer and draw a 2-3 inch line. You should follow this at least 3 more parallel lines about 1cm apart. Then cut 4 more perpendicular line again about 1cm apart. It should like a large tic-tac-toe game. Finally, apply duct tape firmly and then pull the tape off quickly. If you have any paint or primer on the tape the adhesion is poor. If there is no paint or primer on the tape then it is safe to apply the primer and paint over the entire surface.

This application and test can be used for topside paints and bottom paints.

Filling a Hole in Fiberglass

When you are trying to repair a small hole in fiberglass, the best type of product to use is a premium epoxy. This will insure a proper repair and will not allow for shrinking of the material and create a water tight seal.

We recommend the Hawk Epoxy Kit. It contains the epoxy resin, catalyst and filler for the job. Watch the video below to see the steps needed to perform a small hole repair.

How to sand fiberglass for paint

Whether you’re trying to give your boat a new paint job or just touched up a few scratches, properly sanding fiberglass is an important step to ensure a smooth, even finish. Here’s a quick guide on how to sand fiberglass for paint:

  1. Start with a coarse grit paper (40-60) to remove any existing paint or surface imperfections.
  2. Progress to a medium grit paper (80-100) to smooth out the surface.
  3. Finally, use a fine grit paper (200+) to achieve a glass-like finish.
  4. For best results, wet sanding is recommended – simply soak the sandpaper in water for 10-15 minutes before use. This will help to prevent deep scratches and gouges.

How to prep fiberglass for paint

One way to do that is to make sure the fiberglass is properly prepared for painting. Here are some tips for prepping fiberglass for paint:

First, wash the area with boat soap and a soft brush. This will remove any dirt or grime that could prevent the paint from adhering properly.

Next, sand the area with fine-grit sandpaper. This will create a smooth surface for the paint to adhere to.

Finally, wipe down the area with a tack cloth to remove any dust from sanding.

If you have additional questions feel free to reach out to the Botton Paint Store technical team 888-505-2313.